Anne made this gorgeous version of the MIY Collection Fulwood dress by splitting the centre front inverted pleat and creating smaller knife pleats at the side front position. She’s going to talk you through how she did it!
Over to Anne:
I love this version, it’s so flattering, the, pleats draw the eye from the tummy area!
Mark the new pleat position on your pattern. I choose to make 2 smaller pleats on each side of the Centre front of the skirt (shown in red) I used the pleat line furthest from the Centre front for my first line then marked 5 more parallel lines each 3cm apart. (The back is exactly the same).
You can arrange these pleats as you like, but you will need to make sure your new pleats add up to the same size as the original Centre pleat, if not the skirt will no longer fit onto the bodice! My example is for the largest size, you may wish to position them slightly nearer the Centre front for the smallest size.
I traced off the pattern with the alteration but you could use the original if you prefer, the arrows show the direction that the pleats will fold on the right side of the fabric.
Cut out the skirt in your chosen fabric, mark the pleats, as you prefer with tailor tacks / chalk / dressmakers carbon. Tack the pleats into position and sew a machine line across the top of the pleats just above the sewing line to hold. I have done this in a darker thread so you can see it, but I would do this in a matching thread normally.
Continue to make up the dress as Wendy’s instructions.
Thanks so much Anne, there really is so much you can do with this pattern and this is one I hadn’t tried!
If you fancy making your own Fulwood dress and trying out Anne’s ideas you can get a paper version here and the downloadable pdf pattern here.
Here’s a bit more information about Anne:
You can find Anne on Instagram as @New_vintage _ Sewing
With almost 30 years of experience under her belt, teaching at all levels, designing, pattern cutting and sampling for industry and making costume for theatre, opera and T.V. Anne is now teaching textiles and fashion at Loughborough University where she runs a busy sewing room. This features a wide range of sewing machines, knitting and embroidery machines, for the use of students from textiles, fine art, design technology and so on.
Anne loves to spend any spare time in her garden studio where she has a number of industrial and domestic sewing machines and a large fabric collection that includes lots of vintage pieces. Her main passion is pattern cutting, dressmaking and making prototype garments.